A Quick Summary of the 2007 Freeman China Tour

Image: Taken 6/16/07 on our boat from Guilin to Yangshuo. From left to right, Evan Lum, Chris Wong, Jonathan Fung, Katie Cannell, and Kristie Yeung. I suspect my good mood is from winning a big hand of poker before taking this picture, and probably taking most of Chris’ chips in the process.

The following nine points are probably the most succinct way that I could summarize the 2007 Freeman China trip. It covers general facts, provides a sweeping overview of our itinerary, and highlights some of our everyday activities. And of course, when you’re done reading this, you can check out any of the items in the sidebar navigation for details (and lots of them.)

14 students, 2 teachers from Iolani School.
I am proud to report that sixteen people left Honolulu to visit China, and all sixteen of us returned safely. The ratio of males to females was 9:7. The full list of people who went can be found in the right-side navigation under “Trip Members.”

8 cities in 21 days.
We spent three weeks away from home to visit the Middle Kingdom. Aside from Tokyo and Osaka, which we didn’t really get to see in our 6 hour layovers in the airports there, we saw eight major cities. In order, they were: Beijing, Luoyang, Xian, Guilin, Yangshuo, Hangzhou, Suzhou, and Shanghai. We spent a number of days in each city, getting a whirlwind tour of each, before moving on to the next.

Trains, planes, busses, and boats.
To get around, we used a wide variety of transportation. We were exposed to un-air-conditioned trains, overnight trains, high-speed trains, domestic flights, and even a short boat cruise. To get around in the cities, our sixteen-person group had our own chartered full-sized tour busses (with the exception of Beijing, where such a large bus would have been utterly impractical.) These large busses not only gave us a great view of the city streets, but were extremely roomy and comfortable.

It was intense.
The trip was not exactly a restful one. We were always on the move during the day, seeing the cities on a very tight timeframe. We left the hotel after breakfast, and usually did not return until after dinner. Every night, we were generally budgeted about eight hours for sleep, but activities such as washing clothes, watching television, and extensive partying could cut into that precious sleeping time. And sleep was especially important since we would be doing a lot of walking during the day. The tour bus often became a nice place to catch up on sleep at the expense of seeing the city.

We saw the major sights.
We tried to see all of the major landmarks in the cities we visited, while mixing some smaller cultural attractions into our itinerary. Until this trip, I had never even heard of a UNESCO World Heritage Site. But we sure did visit a lot of them!

We also visited schools.
One of the features of our trip was that we scheduled visits with many local Chinese schools. The schools in China sort of operate on a different system than American schools, and I assume that we were supposed to learn and appreciate these differences. In my opinion, the major difference was extensive high-pressure year-end testing which determined your fate far more than the SAT does in America.

Nightly recap meetings.
To make sure we were actually digesting what we were seeing, we had nightly meetings to recap the days’ events. These often involved some weighing of moral values, critical thinking about Chinese culture, or just general discussion.

Nice accommodations and good food.

We were put up in nice hotels with all the modern amenities we needed. Even when we were sent to live in a “farmer’s house,” it turned out that we were sent to more of a rural resort for tourists. While the food tended to be repetitive, since we only ate at tourist restaurants, the meals were filling, and in some cases, outstanding.

All totally free.
Since the trip was paid for in full by a grant from the Freeman Foundation, all sixteen of us spent our three weeks in China for free. All we had to bring was spending money to shop and buy snacks and drinks (read “dranks.”)


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China Hotel Roundup

Image: Taken 6/22/07 in our room at the Suzhou Hotel. Evan Lum, my roommate, and I, Jonathan Fung, got smart this time, and took our pictures of the hotel room before we got settled and wrecked the place.

I have to say that I wasn’t exactly expecting to stay in the best hotels while we were in China. It was sort of an “expect the worst, but hope for the best” kind of deal. However, I was actually quite satisfied with our accommodations. All of our hotel rooms included a television set (which broadcasted all of the government-sponsored stations, as well as a set of cable channels.) A bathroom with running water and warm showers also came standard. A nice bed for each person, and a pair of chairs for lounging was also a recurring theme in these hotels. Oh yes, can’t forget the fact that we got a/c too. And of course, room service did a consistently good job cleaning up our messes and replacing our towels. But the quality of our hotel rooms didn’t matter much anyway, since we were generally out for most of the day, and only returned to sleep and throw the occasional dance party.

Beijing- Beijing Taiwan Hotel: The Beijing Taiwan Hotel definitely had great location, near one of the most prominent shopping streets on Beijing, Wangfujing. And yes, we did get some opportunities to shop there at night. As for the actual hotel, I was markedly disappointed when we rolled into the nice part of town, past some very ritzy hotels, just to pull into the parking lot of a building with a chintzy neon sign. I guess that’s what happens when you get your hopes up. Ok, in the end it wasn’t that bad, and was still a three-star hotel with running water, toilet paper, relatively clean sheets, and no chalk outlines of bodies on the floor. Of course, I still had some complaints. For one, the toilet was too small, and was rather uncomfortable to sit on (I’ll withhold the details.) The buttons on our phone didn’t work very well, and it often took several tries just to do a simple room-to-room call. The safe was completely broken, as well as one of the lamps. And the hotel soap and shampoo didn’t seem to rinse away any dirt, and the low-pressure showerhead did not help much either. Nevertheless, a warm water shower was a blessing.

Luoyang- Peony Hotel: The Peony Hotel was a very nice four star hotel, which was a great relief. I had expected a two-star airport-hotel-style fleapit, since we were only staying in the city for one night. But this hotel was seriously nice. In our chaperones’ illogical attempt to keep the guys’ and girls’ rooms separated, we, the men, were granted rooms on a higher floor. As typical with hotels, a higher floor meant nicer rooms. The bathroom and general furnishings of the room were plain, but classy. The outstanding feature, which we unfortunately did not see in any other hotel during the trip, was the crystal pantry loaded with champagne-drinking accessories. The facilities in the hotel were also commendable, most notably, their weight room with a wonderful massage chair. (I think the posted rules said that we were supposed to pay to use the weight room, but there was no attendant to enforce it, so we just brushed it off as a bad translation. Hah.) However, I did have my complaints about the hotel. For one, the breakfast was awful, with a slim selection of cold food which was generally flavorless. And the leopard-pattern carpet was also quite gaudy. The fact that the corner of the room smelled like piss didn’t help either. (Evan Lum later confessed to the crime, but I forgive him.) Overall, it was a nice hotel.

Xian- Xian Hotel: The Xian Hotel was the only hotel specially noted in our tour itinerary as a four star hotel. So I was expecting it to be the best hotel on the trip. While it was definitely one of the better-looking hotels, in terms of layout and functionality, it was a disaster. The walk from the elevator to our rooms was unnecessarily long, and through a dimly-lit almost creepy hallway. Then, let’s get to all the defective stuff in our rooms. Everyone’s fancy-looking glass shower leaked due to missing caulking at the bottom. Furthermore, the mini-fridge in our room thought it was a cupboard, and refused to chill our drinks, while the toilet adamantly refused to flush. (Naturally, we only discovered that problem when we actually needed it to flush.) Room service wasn’t particularly helpful either, sending two women to our room, who took a look at our fridge, who, in broken English, tried to tell us that it was working perfectly fine. What an insult to our intelligence. Thank god the key-people were more helpful, after Evan Lum left our one and only key locked in the room. Continuing on this positivism, the hotel did indeed look beautiful, and featured a glass platform in the lobby with a grand piano, raised over small fountains. Every evening, a female pianist would play contemporary Chinese pop hits on that piano for guest entertainment. The dining hall also looked great, as well as the indoor pool, exercise facilities, and the trippy glass floors near the bar. The hotel also had decent location, along a strip of electronics stores, which allowed me to buy a pair of speakers. A nearby convenience store also granted easy access to a wide variety of snacks and drinks, while an ice-cream stand offered very cheap cold refreshments. Finally, the Xian Hotel was also our first opportunity to use the internet in China, although at the staggering price of one Yuan per minute (with a 15 minute minimum.)

Guilin- Guilin Park Hotel: The Guilin Park Hotel was my personal favorite on the trip. Of course that’s because our room was special and got a nice extension which made it considerably bigger than everyone else’s. Another four star hotel, it was located along a beautiful river lined with artificially lit, but still, rather romantic trees. It looked fabulous when we pulled in at night, driving slowly to admire the trees, and then going over a bridge to cross the river and get to our moat-protected castle of a hotel. And as a four-star hotel, the rooms were very nicely decorated, and had a distinctly Chinese touch to it with eastern-style wooden décor. Breakfast was also great offering French toast, pancakes, and muesli, among other things. The only complaint that I had about this hotel was that the card-key didn’t quite work. It was the type of card-key that you simply touch to a sensor, rather than inserting it into a slot or swiping it. While novel, the sensor wasn’t strong enough, and we couldn’t just leave the key in our wallets. In fact, it would often take several tries before the lock would beep and open, since we had to find the critical sweet-spot on the key. I would be very sad to leave this hotel for the place we stayed in at Yangshuo.

Yangshuo- Yangshuo New Century Hotel: The Yangshuo New Century Hotel was the most highly rated hotel in Yangshuo, but still wasn’t all too spectacular by western standards. The first day there, I saw and killed at least three varieties of bugs. Then, the next morning, I still woke up to find that my arms and legs had been ravaged by mosquitoes. Speaking of mosquitoes, one morning, I even found a dead mosquito in my orange juice. And no, it didn’t just fly in. I saw it come out of the juice-dispenser with my juice. Gross. One morning, we didn’t even get juice dispensers or a buffet-style breakfast, since the hotel didn’t have enough guests that day to justify offering a buffet breakfast. Oh, then there was the view. The first day, I opened the curtains to check out what glorious views of the mountains we could see. Our window looked straight into an old, narrow, gloomy, and grey alley. I’m not exaggerating. It would be difficult to find a worse view. The halls were not air conditioned, which made them an unhappy place to be during the day, with the high temperatures and humidity of Yangshuo. I know that the Sheraton Moana Surfrider, here in Hawaii is similarly un-air-conditioned, but temperatures in Hawaii aren’t nearly as unbearable as those in Yangshuo. The fact that there was only one very slow elevator located all the way at the opposite end of the building also made it far more pragmatic to climb the spiral staircases. Fortunately, the building was only three stories tall. Well, at least Mr. Bickel was happy, since he had an especially large room.

Hangzhou- Hangzhou Lily Hotel: The Hangzhou Lily Hotel was probably the most vanilla hotel we stayed at. The rooms were small compared to those of the other hotels. In fact, Mr. Bickel’s room was so small that we couldn’t even have our nightly meeting in there, and had to crash Chris Wong and Kevin Duong’s room. But on the whole, it was quiet, clean, and just very normal. The only thing that stuck out about this hotel was that the night we arrived, someone had puked in the driveway, and nobody had gotten around to cleaning it up yet. The view was nothing special to write home about, but at least was an improvement from the grey alley in Yangshuo. However, in general, the hotel was just rather unmemorable, especially since we did not spend much time in it at all, with our packed schedule in Hangzhou.

Suzhou- Suzhou Hotel: The Suzhou Hotel had the best location out of all the hotels we stayed at. While in Suzhou, we got tons of free time, which was great, since the hotel was right along a very long shopping street. While it was a heaven for “dress-shopping,” it also offered a host of stores selling pirated DVDs, knock-off designer clothing, and what not. It even had an affordable (but professional) massage place, a few bars and coffee stores, as well as a pair of music stores. The hotel itself was a comfortable four-star place, and our rooms were all very nicely furnished. They even put a real carnation on the coffee tables. The selection of television channels was also the best of the trip, offering MTV as well as HBO (which broadcasted awesome movies like Madagascar and V for Vendetta.) The in-hotel meals were also great. The buffet breakfast, in my opinion was among the best in the trip. Many nights, we also went for simplicity and convenience and just ate dinner at the hotel, which as also quite enjoyable. The quality of the food was better than most of the tourist-restaurants that we dined at throughout the trip and the menus were arguably the best. By this point in the hotel, the teachers had already given up on separating the boys and girls by floors, so all of our rooms were located conveniently next to each other, and we could move from room-to-room party with ease. Furthermore, the hallways were particularly clean, so we could even walk room-to-room barefoot.

Shanghai- Shanghai New Asia Hotel: The Shanghai New Asia Hotel, was definitely not the Grand Hyatt Shanghai, but was definitely better than what our local tour guide had hinted at. The rooms were very large and comfortable. They were probably the largest rooms of the whole trip (our special room in Guilin notwithstanding.) The view was also pretty nice, as we were on a high floor and could see a healthy portion of the Shanghai skyline. In particular, our room had a fantastic view of one of the buildings which had a neon sign that displayed famous images including the Mono Lisa. Unfortunately, the Shanghai New Asia Hotel was not located along any particularly good shopping streets. When we did go exploring outside the hotel, it was a decently long walk to the nearest stores, all of which turned out to be big disappointments. I also had some other minor complaints, including the long hallway which creaked when you walked on it, and the very dimly lit bathroom which made showering a nearly-claustrophobic experience. But overall, while we did not stay at one of the famous Shanghai hotels, this was definitely a good substitute.


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Special Meals in China

Image: Taken 6/10/07 at the Quanjude Restaurant, Hepingmen location. The chef is cutting the roast duck into nice thin slices for us. The thinner he can cut it, the more skilled he is. As you can tell from the mask on the chef, this is a pretty upscale and sanitary place, even though my camera makes it look darker than it really is.

We were well fed in China, with three full meals every day. Breakfast was always at the hotel, and usually consisted of a buffet with mixed Western and Chinese foods. Lunch and dinner were generally at restaurants which were clearly tourist joints, or part of some hotel. That meant that we were given lots of food at each meal, always spread over some 7 to 9 courses. Unfortunately, the food tended to be quite boring. Regardless of what part of China we were in, the menus stayed pretty static. However, we were treated to several special meals, ranging from the most famous Beijing Roast Duck restaurant in Beijing to an authentic noodle joint. This is a summary of the five most outstanding meals that we enjoyed while staying in China.

Real Local Noodle Place (6/9/07)
The genuine noodle joint in Beijing was the only non-touristy restaurant that we ate at during the whole trip. It was a popular local joint, bustling with activity, and was not nearly as “sheltered” as the other places we ate at. The large room was very hot and filled with continuous motion and with the shouting of orders. The appetizers were very interesting, including one dish with sliced pear and sliced haw, which actually made a nice combination. We were also served, for the first time, the awesome fruit-wrapped-in-a-dough-ball-topped-off-by-caramelized-sugar dish. I wish I knew the name of the dish, but all I know is that it was awesome. We were served many variations of this dish throughout our tour. Anyway, the main course was a bowl of noodles which was virtually bottomless. Well, some people did finish, most notably, Mr. Bickel who polished off his entire bowl while I was still mixing in the sauce. But it was a seriously large helping of noodles, which was quite tasty and very authentic. The fact that they gave us full 2-liter bottles of soda to share, instead of just a single glass of Sprite, also made me very happy, since I was extraordinarily thirsty after touring Tiananmen Square and the Temple of Heaven.

Quanjude Roast Duck (6/10/07)
The Quanjude Roast Duck restaurant at Hepingmen was probably the best place we ate on the whole trip. It was clearly an upscale restaurant. Outside of the large five story building, the parking lot felt like an Audi showroom, and was packed with tons of black Audi A8s, the car of choice for the rich in Beijing. And many of them even had the range-topping W12 engine (a true sign of wealth since China’s gas-guzzler tax will cost you an arm and a leg, as well as your first-born child.) Since it was such a nice place, the restaurant was visited by many famous people including former president, Richard Nixon. The Quanjude Roast Duck restaurant was among the cleanest we dined in, and the bathrooms even had an attendant to point you to the open urinals (as if I couldn’t tell by myself.) The food was also great, with a nice selection of appetizers, and the main course coming in the form of four whole, specially prepared, Beijing roast ducks. A chef came and thinly sliced the duck for us, and we were given these mini-lotus pancakes which we were supposed to wrap the slices of duck and leeks with. The wraps tasted heavenly. Yet, the table I sat on ended up eating far fewer wraps than the other table. But our excuse is that they had Chris Wong, Misha Han, and Matt Kor, the three biggest eaters on the entire trip…and my table had me, the already skinny person who would lose nearly ten pounds over the course of the trip. Doh.

Dumpling Feast (6/14/07)
We got this dumpling feast added to our itinerary by special request. We were supposed to have to pay extra for it, but the wonderful tour agency just covered the extra cost for free. Each table setting included a small porcelain glass of a whitish liquid, which the waitress told us was rice wine. Chen Laoshi wanted the wine removed before we could intoxicate ourselves, but she was somehow convinced to chill and turn a blind eye to the “special-soda.” The wine was nice and sweet, but had a bit of powdery residue at the bottom. And as for all the panic about us being served alcohol, I have grapes in the back of my refrigerator with higher alcohol content than that wine. Anyway, the feature of the dumpling feast was the eating contest. However, the dumplings were served such that there was only one of each type per person, so it turned into more of an endurance contest. I, Jonathan Fung, pooped out after 12, (which I still assert was NOT the fewest number consumed in our group.) Lindsay Kosasa and Grace McLane both doubled me with a ridiculous 24 dumplings each. Chris “food disposal” Wong won, with a total of over 25 (by consuming the dumplings that I didn’t eat.) As for the dumplings themselves, we had a wide variety of fillings ranging from vegetables to squid to abalone to walnut to pork. There’s a Harry Potter reference somewhere here…. Anyway, the dumplings were often decorated to look like the fillings inside, so it was quite artistic. But man, only 12 dumplings…how embarrassing.

Hot Pots! (6/15/07)
The first task at the hot pot restaurant (aside from washing our hands) was to make our own dipping sauce. They had a table laid out with all kinds of ingredients for us to choose from. I don’t want to brag, but my sauce was awesome, fragrant, and had absolutely perfect taste. Simplicity wins: a soy-sauce base, with a dash of peppers for spice, a touch of sesame oil for fragrance, and just a pinch of green onions for fun. On the other hand, I don’t have any idea what Katie Cannell put in hers, but it smelled weird and tasted pretty funky. Then again, she would prove just how good of a cook she is, by cracking an egg into my hot pot…and getting a bit of shell in there as well. It looked even grosser when it started to cook with an uneven foamy texture. Anyhow, it was a good meal, and I ate a lot (unlike at the dumpling feast.) For dessert, we had these heavenly fried bread balls with condensed milk, although the girls (specific names will NOT be mentioned) hogged all the condensed milk for themselves. The surprise of the meal however, came when I accidentally lit my napkin on fire. We each had our own personal hot pot kept warm by our own little flame underneath. Suddenly, Marissa Sakoda starts pointing frantically at me. I looked to see if there was a giant spider crawling on my chest. Nope. The corner of my napkin had touched the flame keeping my hot-pot warm and had caught fire. Thinking quickly, I grabbed it and stuck it in the water of the hot pot. SAFE! Didn’t even need to stop drop and roll.

Tea House (6/17/07)
The tea house in Guilin was a pretty neat meal. The restaurant had the distinction of having been visited by the former first lady, Hillary Clinton. They even had pictures of her on the wall, and put a special distinctive plaque on the chair she sat in. Unfortunately, Bill wasn’t there with her…which sort of makes you wonder. But anyway, the food there was extraordinarily ornate. The soup was decorated to look like a yin-yang symbol, vegetables were laid out on the dish to look like a fan, taro was shaped into a fish, dumplings were made to look like passengers on a cucumber raft, and everything just looked fabulous. The taste? Oh, the taste was all there too. It was good eats.


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China Tour Guide Roundup

Image: Taken 6/21/07 at Hu Xueyan’s house. That is the main building facing the garden. Relaxing in the shade of the fishtail eaves are two of our tour guides: Molly (left), our local guide in Suzhou, and Spring (right), our national guide throughout China.

What would we ever have done in China without our tour guides? We had one national guide, Spring, who stayed with us throughout the duration of the trip, while other local guides would take us around each of the cities they lived in. They hooked us up with the meals, the special goodies like kites and Maglev tickets, and they had to put up with us and all of our grumblings for so many days. As a small aside, Spring did say we were a good group though, since none of us got lost or passed out. (Then again, she was used to touring older groups…like retiree-old.) But here is a short review of all of our tour guides in China.

Beijing (National Guide): Spring- Spring was the best national guide we could possibly have asked for. And that is no exaggeration. She was very well organized, very professional, and very nice. When I was in Beijing, I needed to buy a SIM card for my phone so that I would be able to call home. Nobody else had an international phone, so nobody else needed one. Yet, Spring went out of her way to take only me to go to a phone store and buy one. And this wasn’t just a leisurely stroll. It was a fifteen minute march through construction and the summer heat. But she did it anyway. She was a wonderful tour guide, and I think that we were all happy to have her with us.

Luoyang: Vivian- We only spent a day with Vivian. She really knew her stuff when it came to Buddhist history. Unfortunately, she talked a tad bit too much, and not too many of us were interested in the comprehensive history of the artifacts we were seeing. She would also ask questions that none of us would have the answer to, since we don’t really study Buddhism much, except in World Religions…which was back in 9th grade. But Vee did hook us up with kites, which were quite fun.

Xian: Kathy (Cassie?)- Ah, Kathy. Where to start? Well, the first thing we heard her say was “Let’s move.” And the trademark phrases just followed: “Boys and girls, follow me quickly!” and “Follow me, no problem.” and “Follow me, save money.” She just couldn’t be chill like or Guilin guide, Peter, and needed us to follow her – and quickly without question, all the time. Ah yes. We will always have wonderful memories of Kathy and her parasol and heels. She wins some truly epic lulz.

Guilin: Peter- Peter was one of our more quiet tour guides. He was a cool guy who really helped us to do the stuff we wanted. His approach was pretty hands-off, and tended to let us do as we wished, while providing occasional commentary on the stuff we saw. He was surprisingly knowledgeable in chemistry, and talked about the kinds of anions and cations in the rocks we saw. He also told more jokes than any of the other tour guides.

Yangshuo: Peter- Yay, we had the same tour guide as in Guilin! More Peter!

Hangzhou: Molly- Molly was our youngest tour guide, and was still a college student. She was pretty much fresh to death, and was totally my favorite. Her trademark was that she was extremely proud of her city and wanted to show us all of its opulence and progress. Oh yes, and her other trademark was her tendency to repeat certain phrases, certain phrases. Oh god. We shouldn’t tease her. English isn’t her first language, and the Chinese like reduplicating phrases. Besides, she was so nice, so nice. (And I mean that.)

Suzhou: Rose- Rose was so quiet that it didn’t really feel like she was there during our time in Suzhou. Of course, that could be because we didn’t have very many organized tour activities. But since I don’t have any complaints about her, she must have done a good job. And the few times I do remember her giving information on the stuff we were seeing, she knew what she was talking about, and kept it concise.

Shanghai: Julia- Julia, like Molly, was very proud of her city. I can’t even remember how many times she reminded us about Shanghai heights, speed, and the city by night. I guess it worked, because I still remember those three things. She was pretty cool, and hooked us up with a ride on the Maglev, which was very chill.

Ah yes. We had so many good memories with these guides. Hmm, maybe since Spring has our emails, she’ll email us some pictures from her wedding!


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10 Most Useful Phrases for Traveling in China

Image: Taken 6/9/07 at the Summer Palace. This would be an example of “Engrish,” a poor translation of Chinese into English. Fortunately, it still manages to get its point across…sort of.... But I can’t seem to figure out why they would want to protect those railings. Hmm….

To be honest, on the 2007 Freeman China Tour, we actually did not use that much Chinese. Almost everyone in the Chinese tourism industry or in sales knew enough English to communicate with us and get their point across. (Even if it was just: “No, too cheap!” or “Final price,” or “super good quality” or “Not fake, real!”) But when we did use Chinese, it was generally just a phrase or two. This is, in my opinion, a list of the ten most useful phrases for visitors to China. They range in application from general communication, to dining, to survival, to shopping. They were also among the most commonly used phrases on the trip (with the exception of #8, of course.) Anyway, most of these are pretty broken phrases, and not always totally grammatically correct, but I have tried to simplify it as much as possible. So, while some of these may come off as rather caveman-like, at least these phrases will be easy to remember, and most people will understand what you’re saying. Each of the phrases is followed by a short description of its uses, unless the practical application is blatantly obvious (such as “Where is the bathroom.”) A crash course in Pinyin may also be helpful before trying these phrases, but not necessary. Have fun.

#10 Wŏ tīngbùdŏng. “I don’t understand.” Well, if you don’t speak much Chinese, and people start trying to talk to you in rapid Chinese, you can try to tell them that you don’t understand. But some good that’ll do if they don’t speak English….

#9 Gān bēi. “Cheers.” Can’t make it a party if you don’t toast, eh?

#8 Wŏ hē píjĭu. “I want a beer.” At the start of every meal, you are given a choice of beverage. If you think pointing is too barbaric, this phrase should serve you well. Of course, if you are underage, “píjĭu” can be replaced with any other drink (However, China doesn’t really have a strict drinking age, so “underage” doesn’t quite exist.)

#7 Huài le. “It’s broken.” Aside from using this phrase to tell the hotel staff that your toilet doesn’t flush, and that your mini-fridge thinks that it’s a microwave, you can also use this to point out small defects in the products, while shopping, to get a lower price.

#6 Xiè xiè. “Thank you.” This is probably the most generic Chinese phrase ever (right there next to “ni hao”,) but this is actually quite useful in real life to show your appreciation for waiters after they pour your drinks, or cashiers after they give you your change. And it’s nice to say thanks if you happen to get some free samples or other free swag. Manners, manners.

#5 Duì bú qì. “Sorry.” Well if you step on someone’s toes, hopefully this phrase will placate them and save you from a beating. Otherwise, this phrase also works like an “excuse me” if you are working your way through crowds.

#4 Cèsuŏ zài năr? “Where is the bathroom.” If you happen to forget this phrase, you can just use the international sign-language for “gotta twinkle:” hold your crotch, squeeze your knees together, and oompa-loompa up and down with an anxious look on your face. But since that motion could be interpreted as the traditional Brazillian-injured-crotch-dance, it may be a good idea to just remember the phrase.

#3 Tài guì le. “It’s too expensive.” This is generally used as a bargaining tool. Generally, after you tell the shopkeeper that something is too expensive, they’ll hand you a calculator where you can plug in how much you want to pay for a certain item. Let the haggling begin.

#2 Duō shăo qián? “How much does this cost?” Since prices in small shops tend to be unmarked, you have to ask what things cost. Just know that in certain shops, if you ask the price, you may be stiff-armed into making a purchase.

#1 Bú yào. “Do not want.” This was undeniably the single most useful phrase that we had at our disposal in China. We were offered a ridiculous amount of trinkets by street peddlers that nobody had any interest in. A “Bú yào” or two tended to shoo them away to prey on the next passerby. So, unless you love buying up all worthless junk in the world, you’ll be using this phrase quite a lot while in China.

Note: For those having symbol problems, here are the phrases without the tone marks: 1) Bu yao, 2) Duo shao qian, 3) Tai gui le, 4) Cesuo zai nar, 5) Dui bu qi, 6) Xie xie, 7) Huai le, 8) Wo he pijiu, 9) Gan bei, 10) Wo tingbudong.


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6 Tips to Better Haggling in China

Image: Taken 6/13/07 as Chris Wong, and I, Jonathan Fung, explore the inside of an electronics store near the Xian Hotel. It was way larger than we had expected, and sold all sorts of spare computer parts. You probably could haggle in there, since the prices on ten-year-old computer parts drop every day.

Street-side shops in China love tourists. Tourists, for the most part, have a lot of money, and can be a very easy way for shop owners to make a big profit if the tourists don’t know what they’re doing. So, after three weeks of intensive practice with haggling in China, hopefully I can share some of the tips that I picked up. These tips do not require any knowledge of the Chinese language since most places have a calculator so you can communicate numerically. But admittedly, it does help to know some Chinese since it is a LOT easier to get ripped off when the shopkeeper can pretend not to understand you. So, here we go! Hopefully this how to haggle and bargain guide helps.

Note: You can (usually) only bargain in small street-side shops where prices are not marked. However, if it is a small family owned shop, even if there are marked prices, it can never hurt to ask if you can get an item at a small discount, especially when you’re buying multiple items or shopping with a group of friends who are also making purchases. However, at large department stores, unless you plan to spend at least 100 USD, odds are that you can’t get a discount.

Do not ask the price, if you don’t want to buy. When shop owners have to actually have to rack their brains to think of how much they want to charge you, then open their mouth and tell you the price of something, they are assuming you want it. In fact, the shopkeeper’s initial price is often worthless, and it can help to ignore the figure they give you. Nine out of ten times, they just make those up by looking at how gullible and rich you look. Asking the price in China is simply a show of interest in an item, and an indication that you are looking to engage in negotiations to purchase it.

Know what things are worth in China. Before you even ask the price, you should know what their product is worth, or the maximum you’re willing to pay for it. Often, it helps to think in USD (or whatever currency you’re most used to) then convert to RMB. By knowing what you’re willing to pay, you can judge your counteroffer knowledgably. This price guide may help you with this task.

Counter-offer at reasonably lower than what you’re actually willing to pay. Do NOT counter-offer them at your max offer. You’ll have to expect to work up from your counteroffer. Is there a rule for what percentage of the starting price you should shoot for? No not really. I’ve had to go as low as 10% of the original price to get the shopkeepers to talk sensibly. It’s far more useful to just know what the item is worth and counter-offer accordingly. But in general, if the price seems even a bit ridiculous, you can expect to slice it at least in half before making a purchase. Just know that if you ask a ridiculous price like 5 RMB for a knock-off Rolex, you run a high chance of pissing off the shopkeeper. Depending on where in China you are, that could be dangerous.

Remember that the shopkeeper is NOT your friend. Please. Communism, as we once knew and feared it, is out the window in most places in China. The place is a capitalist heaven where everyone is out to make money and accumulate personal wealth. That includes all shop owners. They are there for one reason: to make money and to feed their families. They are NOT there to help you take trinkets back to your country at discounted prices. Keep that in mind when the shopkeeper starts to try treating you nicely and coaxing you into believing that you’re like family to them. Of course there are exceptions to this rule. But in general, if the shopkeeper seems all too happy to oblige and give you that “student discount” or “special tourist price” you can suspect that they’re still getting the better end of the deal.

Do not smile. When you start smiling and laughing while bargaining, it is a sign of weakness, and the shop vendors don’t take you seriously. I found that shopkeepers are usually willing to go with a lower price if you look somewhat fierce and look like you know what you’re doing. Sunglasses and a cockily-donned cap usually help. Those shopkeepers don’t mess around when you dramatically take off those sunglasses to make eye contact and give them a cold and prying look. You should laugh only to scoff at their unreasonable opening price.

Be willing to walk away. The walk-away tactic is definitely very effective if you use it correctly, and often gets you the price you want, especially if you’re planning to make a decent-sized purchase. Walk away ONLY after you have demonstrated reasonable interest in the item and have negotiated it to almost the price you want, but the shopkeeper still refuses to cut that extra few Yuan off the price. It works especially well in stores which are relatively empty and itching for your business. Often the shopkeeper will grumble, yield, and then call you back giving you the price you want. And if they don’t, but you still want that item, just come back after a while. No shame in that.

And with these tips in mind, hopefully you can save some money next time you’re in China or wherever else and trying to haggle for a better price!


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China Price Guide 2007

Image: Taken 6/25/07 outside a bookstore on Nanjing Road. Not even China is immune from the phenomenon which is Harry Potter. Hah, but I must say that our covers in America look far cooler. The sign doesn’t list the actual price for a copy of Deathly Hallows, but 200 RMB ($26.50) is a pretty big down payment to reserve a book that costs us less than $20 at Costco.

Stuff in China tends to be cheaper than stuff in the States. The sale prices on food and drink in our supermarkets is like the everyday shelf price in China. (The catch, of course, is that lots of the food is generally expired or near-expired.) And if you’re looking for a fake, low quality knock-off of some high-end product, China offers a wide selection at affordable everyman prices. This list is just a cursory glance at what we had to pay for stuff while we were in China in June of 2007. I list two numbers. The lower number is as low as prices for the item got, while the higher number is the max you should be paying for it. (If you hear a price higher than that, the shopkeeper is just trying to milk you.)

Of course, this list generally refers to items that students like those of us on the trip would be interested in. Therefore, unfortunately, I did not make any particular note of the liquor prices. But at the Shanghai Pudong International Airport, Mr. Bickel noted that beer was far cheaper than bottled water at one shop. And even behind the counter at convenience stores, I noticed that high-proof drinks tended to be rather affordable, or at least cheaper than what we see in our supermarkets here. And at one of the pubs we walked past, it was only 98 RMB for 10 shots. I didn’t even bother making note of cigarette prices, since smoking is disgusting and not beneficial in any way. Anyway, the list below is divided into three sections: Knock-Offs and Pirated Swag, Touristy Souvenirs, and Snacks and Drinks.

NB: You will see that I have tended to avoid listing products imported from other countries such as Levi jeans or Craftsman tools. Do not bother purchasing any of these items in China. Imported items suffer from tarrifs and what-not, so you will end up paying more for them than you would back home.

NB2: All prices are in RMB. In the case of knock offs, most brand names are interchangeable, since it usually just involves printing another name on the same item. I just use big name brands for demonstrative purposes.

Knock-Offs and Pirated Swag

Fake Women’s Gucci Watch: 20 to 45
Fake Men’s Rolex Watch: 30 to 70
Fake Automatic Breitling Watch 160 to 250
Fake Women’s Chanel Wallet: 10 to 60
Fake Men’s Ferragamo Wallet: 30 to 60
Fake Louis Vuitton Handbag (size dependent): 100 to 300
Fake Dunhill Belt: 35 to 60
Fake Hermes Tie: 10 to 20
Fake Nike Air Force Ones: 80 to 120
Fake Quiksilver T-Shirt: 25 to 45
Fake Lacoste Polo: 30 to 50
Fake Nike Windbreaker: 80 to 120
Fake Samsonite Carry-On Suitcase: 90 to 130
Fake GBA Game: 28 to 50
Pirated DVD: 6 to 10
Pirated DVD9: 9 to 18

Touristy Souvenirs

Pee Pee Boy: 1 to 3
Communist Hats: 5 to 15
Little Red Books: 10 to 15
Jasmine Tea (125g): 25 to 40
Postcards: 3 to 8

Snacks and Drinks

Minute Maid OJ (20 oz bottle): 2.7 to 5.0
Pepsi (20 oz bottle): 2.5 to 5.0
Coke (20 oz bottle): 2.6 to 5.0
Water (20 oz bottle): 1.0 to 5.0
Box of Pocky: 3.5 to 7.0
Box of Pretz: 3.5 to 7.0
Cup Noodles: 3.0 to 8.0
Loaf of bread: 3.0 to 6.0
Roll of Oreos: 4.0 to 9.0
Doublemint Gum (5 pc.): 2.0-5.0


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